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After a couple of hot but undemanding miles, you slip into the cool narrows, 50 feet wide in spots, noisy with falling water, and illuminated by aspen groves exploding in sunlight.Beyond, the canyon reopens into lush riparian meadows, but for now these tight walls are a meditative shelter from all that emptiness waiting outside.

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Walk a few hundred yards along the saddle’s adjacent fire road to the Sunset Ridge Trail.The trail into Cooper Canyon leaves a hikers’ parking lot in the Buckhorn Campground near the summit, dropping along the back slope of the San Gabriel Mountains past stands of incense cedars and following a musical creek that pings through a series of stony cataracts.The air billowing off the desert floor arrives so pure, you can taste outer space on your tongue; on this side of the range, everything feels different.The trail is a small fire road that follows a creek through valley oak covered in mistletoe and bigleaf maples alive with red-tailed hawks and towhees.The highway buzz falls away, and soon the serpentine path climbs above the dense woodland, passing over meadows that dot a long ridgeline.